You can always count on us French to resurrect a pastry with extra panache. When I first walked by the Popelini store on the rue des Martyrs, I was almost not surprised to see a sleek shop selling only some chous à la crème. I’m not even a chou aficionado in the first place since the cheaper version you find in common bakeries taste a little blah to me. Those Popeloni numbers are a different ball game though. The cute one with its black hat on the picture is chocolate-passion fruit, and it might be my favourite, even if lemon and salted butter caramel are pretty tasty too.________ There are two Popelini shops in Paris: 44 rue des Martyrs, Paris 9 and 29 rue Debelleyme, Paris 3.